Відео

Very helpful, thanks!

Why have an air-compressor no matter how big the tanks are it will only last between 40 seconds to just over a minute? I just don’t get why not use electric or battery tools that will out perform any air guns. Only reason why i looked at this video is to see if I can use an air-compressor for an enclosed laser cutter and engraver. The air-assist provided for most lasers with a 40 watt module are too weak to do the job, so I thought the alternative would be an air compressor. But, the air isn’t consistent when demoing the paint gun.

Thank youuuuu!!! Why because you went to the point! Easy piecy and I just did what you are teaching and was great! ☺️

Windows that open horizontally have to use a metal bar that crosses the unit one end of bar over interior edge of window going across to the interior side of window frame, the bar is mounted across the back of ac bracket top of ac unit so keeps the ac from falling out of window, unfortunately on these set ups have to precut piece wood or thick plastic to fit top of ac unit to the top of window seal framing to keep out bugs flies only disadvantage of having windows oprn side ways

Very helpful video. Step by step and why. No fluff, just the pertinent info. And a great recap at the end. This is the example of what help videos should be. I would give 5 likes if I could.

OMG great video. you answered 100 plus questions i had. Go Oilers's Go! TY Charm 😜 Seven years later.

Thanking you in 2024!! The apartment my husband and I live in is 40 years old, and I blew a fuse this morning for the first time! This video was super helpful at calming my nerves around changing 🥰

Why the heck don’t they just build them with a built in tilt inside the chassis? Jeesh

Thank you so much for the detailed explanation of the process of maintaining the condensate pump.

Hey John, enjoyed your video & greetings from across the pond in Ireland, yes video 4 years old but said I’d ask, do you know of any attachments for rust removal in tight corners on a metal trailer, I have the wire brush & poly strip disks for angle grinder which are excellent but can’t get into tight corners / spaces Thanks

This exact thing just happened but my furnace coils are inside a duct and I have no idea how to access them.

Great video. The manufacturing techniques seem to be the same the world over. I have a massive blacksmiths lock on my front door here in Scotland. Made in 1908, it has an identical mechanism down to the Roman numeral markings. The only difference is mine is two keys, one to operate the latch from outside. Unfortunately both keys long gone.

Thanks my stem broke and then the cartridge got stuck so this was very vhelpful.

I know it should pop right off.But there is so much buildup on it from the water minerals, lime,and scale. No room to get at the clip easily thank you. For the help.

Thanks. Great video. Even with one hand you managed to get the message across and the video quality is great. 🤩👏

Nothing better for Drywall!! Throw away your old Roto zip you never used.. Go cordless.. at least the Dewalt version is excellent. When in a pinch I use it to notch out 2x framing lumber and do pretty well cutting out a 4 sided deep pocket for a 2x4. A chisel clean up and it's darn good. Also use it to "Clearance" tight fits (I like a Tight Fit!). It truly is a wonder tool, there will usually be a better choice tool, but for cordless, it can't be beat.

Thanks

You didn't show how you changed the rounded corners to 90 degrees 😢

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

This type of fuses are 100% fail safe Brakers can fail and still conduct current fyi

A helpful video! I knew some, didn’t know some, but a good refresher course. More of this style of video would be welcomed, focusing on a different common component each time 👍

What about any nails sticking through the decking that may be in the way, do you cut the ends off of them or what?

Can you please re explain the back legs? I still don’t understand how to cut them in that shape. I know you used the template but I don’t have a template. Lovely video. Thanks 🙏

most important part I wanted to see was how to avoid having this happen again which you unfortunately avoided showing. what to do to avoid moisture causing rot to occur. Assume it was some kind of flashing installed some how at the top to not allow water to run down in back of clapboard resulting in fugus to grow from combination of moisture and heat . But thank you for your help showing how to replace wooded rotten clapboard.

Just starting a job wrapping fifteen 4x4's for my new screened porch. Are you applying the pvc cement to the all mating joints or just to one side?

Why's it called a radial arm saw? It moves radially and it's for sawing off your arm.

That metal sleeve doesn't just slide out. Mine is stuck in there good, and it won't budge. Any suggestions?

2024 this is probably a $350 mower

Great video, helps understand my situation but as with anything, each predicament is unique. I am trying to add a switch and outlet in one receptacle have the outlet (bottom) alway hot, and the switch control the light which it currently does. And it's an older house with only a black and a white. I still cannot figure it out.

This was very valuable, thank you

It's easier to get up tack- board by using a gardening hoe. In a pinch, I used a shovel. Oddly, fewer scratches and less stress on your back.

Most fairly modern (up to ±50 year old DIY) Radial(arm)saws manufactured/sold by B&D/DeWalt/Elu as well industrial RAS's made/sold by other companies (in Europe as well as in the USA) are not hardly as dangerous as you like your viewers te believe. Most (if not all) RAS of which the motor can be turned 90º (ripping position) do have all the standard features you say RAS's (i.c. your Craftsman-RAS) seem to lack. My over 30 year old ELU RAS-8001 (≈DeWalt DW721) has the following standard safety features: 1) fully adjustable riving-knive ⇒ for rip-cuts; 2) fully adjustable finger-protection ⇒ for both cross- & Rip-cuts; 3) fully adjustable anti-kickback-device (AKBD) ⇒ not just a simple hold-down fotr your ripping-stock but a very effective safety feather with making use of effective anti-kick-back-fingers (AKBF's) even when making beveled rip-cuts; 4) fully selfadjusting guardschields ⇒ placed on either side of the sawblade. Ensures the sawblade is hardly if at all exposed from the side. Even during the cut the blade is hardly exposed from the sides facing the operator. As a 12 year old, over 50 years ago, I had my first encounter with a Radial(arm)saw, it already had all the features of my ELU RAS-8001 c.q. DeWalt DW721. The friendly carpenter who owned the RAS carfully tought me how to use it safely for all types of cutting and especially ripping (as a kid/youngster I was not allowed to come even near the in his view far more dangerous table-saws). So be for any new cut, cutting set-up, I was tougth to adjust the finger-protector to the thickness of the stock. For ripping one was to let down and properly adjust the riving knive and the anti-kickback-device. ========== Looking at both your videos it is clear that, contrary to your statements/and believe, your ¿very-old? Craftsman-RAS already has some (if not most) of those important safety-features, be it in a less advanced design than at least de (European) DeWalt-RAS’s from the 70’s and onwards. But somehow you missed them or at least do not seem to really understand them: 1) Riving Knife ⇒ OK, your machine seems to lack the use an fitting of a riving knive; 2) Fingerprotection ⇒ Your machine has an easily adjustable fingerprotector that consists of the (upper) sawcover to be tilted down towards the stock (so downwards towards the operator when crosscuting and ripping); a feature you mistakenly took for some way to improve the dust output/exhaust away from the operator; 3) Anti-kick-back-device (AKBD) ⇒ your machine already features a quite effective anti-kick-back-device (AKBD) including anti-kick-back-fingers (AKBF), at least for non-beveled ripping. But since, at least in outrip-postion, you mistakenly feed the stock from right to left (as suitable for in-rips) which places the AKBD in reversed (and therefor nonfunctional) postion with respect to the direction of the stockfeed; thisway the AKBD can only serve a a simple holddown. In your video you further push down the AKBD so far that the AKBF's become completely useless even in in-rip-position; this way the AKBF's only 'serve' as ineffective/useless sliders/scratchers over the top of the stock when in passes underneath during the rip-cut. This shows that you did not fully understand haw to make use of the AKBD other then as a (useless) holddown. When usede an adjuted in a correct way your AKBD ensures safe ripping at least for non-beveled rip-cuts. I strongly suggest you look up the manual that shows the correct use of the quite functional AKBD + AKBF’s and as well as the othe features tha make ripping an a RAS at least as safe as on most (modern) tablesaws. 4) Sideguard-shields - your machine lacks them so the downpart of the sawblade ios fullyexposed; I don’t know if your Craftsman never had susch side proitection as standarrd or as an accessorie, but most modern RAS’s have them even though many operators take them of (parcially). ========== Any machine that is not operated carefully or in the way it is intended is dangerous; and sure some of the possible uses shown in older manuals are never save; Nowadays safety plays a greater role in the use of most machines and manufacturers take great care not to propagate improper and dangerous uses of all kinds of statonairy saws, be it bandsaws, tablesaws, radial(arm)saws and even (vertical) panelsaws, but a properly used RAS is not more dangerous than a table-saw, neither for crosscuts, nor mitering nor ripping. So make them safe by using them safely, try to understand how to best use them (safe) and tka advantage of all its features without making unsubstantiated claims about the dangers of either machines, especially where those dangers can easily mitigated by proper understanding and use. And further RTFM, and if it doesn't make sense RTFM again (and again). een vriendelijke groet, Simon Koorn (Netherlands)

Perfect thank you man you just made the job easier:).? Richard Texas

Does it cut ceramic tiles

How many hours did you have on your ZT mower when you needed to replace those dampeners?

Most helpful video. Not only did it describe my problem, it showed me how to fix it.

This looks exactly like what I just opened up today on a 130 year old house. I'm pretty sure it's way above my pay grade or skill set but thank God for UA-cam

Unfortunately my old cartridge wasn't sticking out enough like yours, I decided to break it apart as you show anyway and just made it so much worse. Got a Taskrabbit Tasker coming in the morning. God I pray they can get it out!

Hi, what is your multi tool you used to cut out the wood?

Nice job!

I agree with everything you did except for, how do you know the knife is just touching the underside of the wood if it doesn’t move at all? Are you going to use a feeler gauge or something? I hate the amount of time it takes to set the joint or knives as everyone else does. I just don’t know a surefire and simpler way of doing this. Usually, I will take my aluminum straight edge which is perfect and putting Mark on the straight edge and see how much it moves from the highest point forward and then do that to the backside and the front side of each night. I have not tried the magnetic trick yet even though I have it, so I guess that is going to be my next adventure to try to make this process quicker. I hate changing these knives so much that I am looking to sell my jointer I have now and purchase a helix head jointer instead.

Is it the same process for lighter wood?

Thank you for the video God bless from a gma n tx. Appreciate it very much

You can tell you are a serious worker by all the blood stains on your shorts. Not going to let a flesh wound stop you.

Ya da man! So hard to find videos on how to darken rather than lighten

What did you use to mount the stringers to the concrete floor (slab)?

Good job

Just picked one up. Anxious to try it out

These PVC boards are crazy expensive. For my deck it would cost over $2k just for the material let alone the labor.

N.B.I only use my compressor occasionally so when I’m done I bleed the air and open the drain valve to remove any water. I don’t want corrosion in my tank that can cause a dangerous explosion someday.